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Cutouts

Empty boxes are nice, but speakers need cutouts. The challenge for me was knowing that with one mistake, the cabinet could be wrecked … no pressure.

Quick note. Previously, I have done the cutouts before veneering. It’s lower stress because I was not too far into the project. But it’s hard to get a nice clean edge on the veneer. This way produced a much cleaner finish.

In my paranoia to avoid making a critical mistake, I went to lengths to make sure everything was marked, tested and tested again. In addition to taping and marking the front of each speaker, I marked up two test panels. I put painters tape around the circumference of the cutouts and used a compass to draw the outline of the outer recess. I double checked that I had the woofer on the bottom and the tweeter on the top. I checked that there was clearance between the inner cutout and the window bracing. I then chickened out for a day or two before firing up the router.

I marked the test panel at the same time as marking the cabinets to make sure it was all consistent. Before cutting anything on the cabinets, I did a full dry run on test panel #1. I dropped the drivers in to make sure the recess depth, outer and inner diameter were good. Check.

Check recess depth on second test panel
Use the circle jig for front baffle cutouts

For the actual cabinets, I first cut the recess on test panel #2. I measured depth with a pair of calipers and used the router depth stop to dial it in. Once I got it just right, I cut all three of the speakers. This ensured I had a consistent depth for each cabinet and minimized the opportunity to make a mistake.

I cut the recesses with a 1/2” bit. Then for the inner cutouts and the port holes, I used a 1/4” bit. I managed to break two 1/4” bits in the process. Instead of using lower quality double flute straight bits, I’m going to start using a Whiteside carbide double flute up-cut spiral bit for the through holes. For the exposed surface cuts like the recess, I’m going to use a double flute down-cut spiral bit. The down cut will minimize tear out around the edges of the cut.

But even with a bit of grief, they turned out looking great.

Painting cutouts

As a final touch, I painted the cutouts black. I used a tube of art supply metallic black acrylic. Mainly because I found it in a cabinet. But it actually worked great. It was easy to apply with a small brush and cleaned up easily with water. Certainly easier and faster than trying to spray. And any paint that got on the finished surface was easily wiped off with a damp cloth.